Derm DMs: Muaj pes tsawg daim tawv nqaij acids kuv yuav tsum siv nyob rau hauv kuv niaj hnub?

Acids tau nkag mus yuav luag txhua pawg ntawm cov khoom tu tawv nqaij. Tam sim no ntawm kuv lub rooj hnav khaub ncaws, ntxuav, toner, essence, serum thiab exfoliating pads Lawv txhua tus muaj qee hom hydroxy acid (piv txwv li. AHA or BHA). Cov khoom xyaw no muaj txiaj ntsig zoo thiab muab cov txiaj ntsig zoo rau daim tawv nqaij, tab sis lawv tuaj yeem ua rau dryness thiab irritation yog siv ntau dhau los yog tsis raug. Thaum nws yog ntxias kom xav khaws txhua yam khoom noj uas muaj cov kua qaub (thiab meej meej kuv paub qhov no los ntawm kev paub) koj tsis xav ua nws dhau.

Kuv nyuam qhuav tham nrog Dr. Patricia Wexler, ib pawg kws kho mob uas muaj ntawv pov thawj hauv New York, kom paub seb muaj pes tsawg cov khoom siv exfoliating tuaj yeem siv hauv ib qho kev kho mob. Nyeem nws cov lus qhia tshwj xeeb. 

Cov khoom uas muaj cov kua qaub puas tuaj yeem muab txheej?

Muaj tiag tiag tsis muaj lossis tsis teb ntawm no; Tus nqi ntawm exfoliation koj cov tawv nqaij tuaj yeem ua tau nyob ntawm ntau yam. Ua ntej, nws yog koj hom tawv nqaij, hais tias Dr. Wexler. Pob txuv, oily daim tawv nqaij feem ntau zam cov acids zoo dua li cov tawv nqaij qhuav los yog rhiab heev. Txawm li cas los xij, Dr. Wexler sau tseg tias "cov kua qaub yuav tsum siv nyob rau hauv qhov nruab nrab" tsis hais koj hom tawv nqaij li cas. 

Lwm yam uas yuav cuam tshuam rau koj qhov kam rau ua yog: feem pua ​​ntawm cov kua qaub koj siv thiab seb koj puas siv barrier-strengthening moisturizer. "Muaj cov roj tseem ceeb ntawm koj daim tawv nqaij uas koj tsis xav tshem tawm," Dr. Wexler hais. Tshem tawm cov roj yam tseem ceeb no tsis tsuas yog ua rau lub cev qhuav dej thiab tawm ntawm daim tawv nqaij tsis zoo rau kev puas tsuaj, tab sis nws kuj tuaj yeem ua rau koj cov tawv nqaij tsim ntau sebum los them nyiaj. Cov khoom siv moisturizing Dr. Wexler pom zoo siv tom qab exfoliation yog hyaluronic acid. Txawm hais tias nws lub npe, cov khoom xyaw no tsis yog exfoliating acid, yog li nws tuaj yeem siv tau zoo nrog AHAs thiab BHAs. 

Ib qho kua qaub uas feem ntau siv tau txhua hnub (tshwj xeeb rau cov neeg uas muaj tawv nqaij oily) yog salicylic acid (BHA). "Muaj tsawg tus neeg tsis haum rau nws, thiab nws yog qhov zoo ntawm kev pab kom nruj thiab tshem tawm qhov pores," nws hais. Qhov no tuaj yeem pab tau tshwj xeeb rau kev ua kom koj cov tawv nqaij ntshiab yog tias koj nquag hnav lub npog ntsej muag tiv thaiv. 

Yog tias koj xav siv lwm cov kua qaub, xws li AHA, los kho cov suab tsis sib xws lossis kev ntxhib los mos, Dr. Wexler pom zoo kom siv cov kua qaub me me thiab siv cov khoom moisturizing tam sim ntawd. Piv txwv li, koj tuaj yeem siv tshuaj ntxuav txhua hnub uas muaj salicylic acid (sim Vichy Normaderm PhytoAction Deep Cleansing Gel), thiab tom qab ntawd cov ntshav nrog glycolic acid (piv txwv li, L'Oréal Paris Derm Intensive 10% Glycolic Acid) (ib hnub los yog ob mus rau peb zaug hauv ib lub lis piam, nyob ntawm koj cov tawv nqaij) thiab tom qab ntawd siv cov moisturizer xws li CeraVe Moisturizing Cream. Nws yog tsim nrog ceramides thiab hyaluronic acid los tiv thaiv daim tawv nqaij barrier. 

Yuav ua li cas paub yog tias koj nyob nraum overexfoliating

Redness, irritation, khaus, los yog tej yam tsis zoo tshwm sim yog tag nrho cov cim ntawm over-exfoliation. Dr. Wexler hais tias "Tsis muaj ib yam dab tsi uas koj siv yuav ua rau muaj teeb meem no." Yog tias koj ntsib ib qho ntawm cov teebmeem no, ncua sijhawm exfoliation kom txog thaum koj cov tawv nqaij zoo lawm thiab rov ntsuam xyuas koj cov exfoliation regimen thiab kev txhawj xeeb ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas yuav tsum tau xyuam xim rau koj cov tawv nqaij thiab nco ntsoov tias nws cuam tshuam li cas rau qee feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov kua qaub thiab zaus ntawm kev siv. Nws yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws los pib me me thiab qeeb (piv txwv li qis acid feem pua ​​thiab siv tsawg zaus) thiab ua haujlwm koj txoj hauv kev raws li koj cov tawv nqaij xav tau. Thaum tsis ntseeg, nrog ib tus kws kho mob dermatologist rau ib qho kev npaj rau tus kheej.